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In the world of mechanical keyboards, customization is king. Enthusiasts and gamers alike are constantly searching for the perfect combination of switch, keycap, and chassis to create a typing experience that is uniquely their own. The ATK RS7 V2 stands out in this crowded market by offering a remarkable level of built-in versatility. It’s not just about aesthetics; it’s about fundamentally changing the way the keyboard feels and responds under your fingertips.

One of its most innovative features is the ability to switch between two distinct mounting structures: the default "core flex" gasket-style mount and a more traditional, rigid "top dual" mount. The former provides a soft, cushioned, and flexible sensation, ideal for long typing sessions by reducing finger fatigue. The latter delivers a firm, direct, and consistent feedback, often preferred by competitive gamers and typists who crave precision.

If you've been curious about what the top mount structure feels like, or if you're ready to transition to a firmer typing platform, you're in the right place. This comprehensive guide will walk you through every step of the process, from disassembly to final software calibration, transforming your ATK RS7 V2 to match your personal preference.

The Power of a Personalized Keystroke

Why Make the Switch? Gasket vs. Top Mount

Before we grab our tools, it’s important to understand what this modification achieves.

• Core Flex (Gasket Mount): This is the stock configuration. The keyboard’s plate and PCB are isolated from the main case by silicone "gaskets." This creates a dampened, bouncy, and somewhat muted typing sound and feel. It’s forgiving, comfortable, and has a noticeable flex when you press down.
• Top Dual Mount: In this setup, the plate/PCB assembly is screwed directly into the top half of the keyboard’s case. This creates a rigid and unified structure. The result is a much firmer typing experience with a more direct transfer of force, leading to sharper feedback and a clackier sound profile. There is virtually no flex.

Choosing between them is purely a matter of preference. Now, let's get started on the conversion.

What You’ll Need for the Mod

The process is straightforward and doesn't require any specialized equipment. ATK has conveniently included most of what you need. Gather the following before you begin:

• H1.5 Hex Screwdriver: For the side panel screws.
• PH1 Phillips Screwdriver: For the main chassis screws.
• Included Accessories: The new silicone gaskets and screws that came with your ATK RS7 V2.
• A clean, soft surface: A desk mat or microfiber cloth is perfect to prevent any scratches.

Step-by-Step Conversion Guide

Follow these instructions carefully to ensure a smooth transition.

Step 1: Disassembling the Side Panels

First, place your gaming keyboard face up on your protected surface. Using your H1.5 hex screwdriver, locate the eight hex screws securing the left side panel. Carefully unscrew all of them and set them aside in a safe place, like a small tray. Once the screws are removed, you can gently detach the side panel and disconnect its small internal cable. Repeat this exact process for the right side panel.

Step 2: Opening the Top Housing

With the side panels removed, it’s time to open the main body. Switch to your PH1 Phillips screwdriver. You will need to remove a total of eight screws that hold the top and bottom halves of the case together. There are four screws located on the top edge of the keyboard and four more along the bottom edge. Once all eight are removed, you can carefully lift the top housing away from the internal assembly (which includes the PCB, plate, and bottom case).

Step 3: Swapping the Mounting Components

This is the core of the modification. You will see small, soft silicone particles sitting on the internal assembly—these are the components for the "core flex" structure. Carefully remove all of them.

Now, take the new, flatter silicone gaskets that were included with your keyboard. Look at the inside of the top cover you just removed. You will see grooved channels designed to hold these new gaskets. Press the new gaskets firmly into their corresponding slots on the top cover. They should fit snugly.

Step 4: Reassembling the Keyboard

With the new top mount gaskets in place, carefully align the top cover over the internal assembly and lower it back into its original position. Take the new set of screws provided for the top mount conversion and use your PH1 screwdriver to secure the top housing. Re-install the eight screws—four on top, four on bottom—ensuring a firm but not overly tight fit.

Next, re-attach the side panels. Reconnect the small internal cables for each panel and then screw them back into place using the H1.5 hex screwdriver and the original sixteen hex screws.

Step 5: The Final, Crucial Step - Software Calibration

Your keyboard is physically reassembled, but the job isn't finished. Because the physical structure has changed, the switches may need to be recalibrated to ensure accurate and consistent actuation.

Open the Atk Hub software on your computer. Navigate to the device settings for your RS7 V2 and look for a switch calibration or reset option. Run the calibration process as prompted by the software. This will re-map the actuation points of the keys, guaranteeing that your newly modified keyboard performs flawlessly.

Conclusion: A Brand New Keyboard

Congratulations! You have successfully converted your ATK RS7 V2 to a top dual mount structure. You’ve not only performed a cool hardware mod but have also unlocked a completely different feel and sound profile from your keyboard. This ability to adapt and transform is what makes the ATK RS7 V2 a truly special piece of hardware. Enjoy the crisp, direct feedback of your newly configured keyboard and the satisfaction of a DIY job well done.